Centro Paninoteca

	By Carey Sweet Jun. 23, 2007 Chef-owner Chris Cottingham doesn't see his new Centro Paninoteca as a dining destination, he's explaining to a guest sitting at his bar one late weekday afternoon. With his north Scottsdale café's dozen or so panini, three salads and half dozen appetizers, it's more of place to just stop by, before or after an evening out. It's a nice spot for wine tastings, he muses, a stiff drink, a snack, or perhaps best of all, an opportunity to get something good to eat until 2 a.m. every day except Sunday. In Italy, after all, paninotecas are simply popular little diversions, offering slim menus of sandwiches, salads and such, and usually open into the wee hours. But a real restaurant? As in a place to come to on purpose when we're hungry and want to enjoy some fine food? And on a regular basis? Naah. Cottingham's guest, whom I've been watching stuff his face with a hefty vegetable panini ($8.50), doesn't seem to agree. There's little left of the roasted red pepper, fresh mozzarella, zucchini, roasted tomato and baby arugula on focaccia except a shimmer of olive oil on his plate. I can't help but notice that he seems awfully comfortable here, too, ordering more than one specialty beer simply because he noticed that Cottingham had added it since the last time he was in, oh, two days ago. One bite of my shrimp ceviche, however, and I'm certain that Cottingham is wrong in his humble assessment. Whether he realizes it or not, his Centro is a jewel, worthy of a special drive from points far beyond his Scottsdale and Shea neighborhood. A hidden gem, more specifically. Virtually impossible to see, tucked as it is behind a parking lot in a tiny space next to the longstanding Handlebar-J country-Western bar and restaurant, it's been operating quietly since opening this spring. Word of mouth is what's filling its eight small tables and handful of bar stools; I heard about it because Cottingham was previously manager at Delux, the hip, high-end burger phenomenon in Biltmore Plaza. That ceviche ($9.50), is a standout. More like gazpacho with its tomato-y, soupy consistency, it's stocked with cilantro, onion, lime and sweet peas instead of the usual chiles. It's a creation that kitchen manager Alfredo Samano (another former Delux-er), brought from his native Acapulco, Cottingham tells me. I don't like it better than the traditional recipe, but it's refreshingly different, particularly when paired with crunchy crostini slathered in imported chevre, sun-dried tomato, Parmesan and olive oil ($8). Cottingham suggests I try the chicken panini special ($9.50), and he doesn't steer me wrong. It's a wonderfully juicy slab of prosciutto-wrapped bird on Arizona Bread Company rosemary focaccia, topped with creamy fontina, Dijon mayo, snappy-fresh pesto, roasted tomato and baby arugula alongside a pile of crisp cayenne-cumin dusted sweet potato chips. As much as is available, produce comes from Queen Creek's One Windmill Farms. A mixed olive tray ($6), too, gets a nice twist from a centerpiece of Padana cheese instead of the more typical Parmigiano Reggiano, and a Cottingham-recommended pairing of an ice-cold Tripel Karmeliet beer from Belgium. Dairy and hops is a personal favorite, Cottingham confides; recently, he offered a flight of five grilled cheese sandwiches with five beers. As I get up to leave, Cottingham grabs another brew from behind the counter, and pops the top. He's seen another regular approaching the front door, and thrusts it into the happy man's hand as he takes a seat at the bar. The guest announces that this week, he's hosting his 25th wedding anniversary, his 50th birthday and getting his contractors license. So why not celebrate at his favorite Centro? Of course, I have to visit again in the wee hours. Because if during the day, the small (1,000 square foot) shop is small-town cozy, at night, lit only by candles and tiny lights, it turns big-city sexy. Stopping in one late evening, I battle with sophisticated boutique wine sippers for table space to balance my spread of a spicy-tangy panini stuffed with hot capicolla, fontina, fresh mozzarella, black olive, pepperoncini, roasted red pepper and red wine vinegar ($8.50). A Lulu's press ($7.50) of Vermont yellow and white cheddar, Jack and meaty tomato goes beautifully with a Guinness. A "medi," meanwhile, is a delicious melding of feta, fontina, fresh mozzarella, black olive, pepperoncini, roasted red pepper and red wine vinegar ($8.50). Even before I've paid my check, I'm plotting when I can return to try the grilled gorgonzola and fig on sourdough ($7), the salmon carpaccio ($10), and the lovely sounding chicken salad sandwich ($8.50) with dried cranberries, slivered almonds, tomato and red onion. Many years ago, during the dawn of Scottsdale, Centro's space was the original (former Mayor) Drinkwater's liquor store. The chalkboard of drink specials above the bar covers what used to be the shop's drive through window. In its day, Drinkwater's was the place to go for fine wines and spirits, and drinking advice from a friendly expert. Today, Centro is all that, plus a spot for terrific food. Which would make it - dare I say it? A dining destination.
	By Barry Jun 24, 2007 After reading about Centro on here, and reading the little review on azcentral, my panini loving wife and I decided to visit this very little place with friends last night after a movie. It's located on the north east corner of Scottsdale and Shea, right next to Handlebar J's (directly behind the Jack in the Box). It's very small from the front, and even smaller when you get inside (maybe 1000 s.f.). There are one or two parking spots directly in front, and then a little patio before you get to the door. Inside, there is a small stand alone bar to the right when you walk in that didn't seem to be in use. Past that on the right is a door, that will soon lead to a patio on the side connecting to the front. He'll have another 460 feet of patio space once it's completed. Past the side door is the real bar with maybe 5 stools, and past that, more hidden in the back is the kitchen. The left 2/3 of the narrow space is reserved for 8 or so tables. The atmosphere is very casual and relaxed. Although the owner, Chris, used to be the GM at Delux, Centro is much less sophisticated in it's design. That's not a bad thing, but don't expect Delux with panini instead of burgers. We sat at a table and checked out the wine list. The list has 8 or so each of whites and reds by the glass. I did not see a bottle list, but I assume you can order a bottle, if you prefer. Chris stated that the wines are most likely those you have never seen or heard of before, and with a few exceptions he was right. It is a very eclectic list, and I saw wines from California, Italy, Chile and other locales on the short list. The wines seemed to be in the $8-9 a glass range, and we tried a sauv blanc from Chile, and a Cline viognier. Both were very good. Centro also offers a nice list of beers, although I didn't take too long a look. It's all bottle beers, and someone in our group had a Stella. The menu is split into 3 sections: appetizers, salads and panini. There were 6 of us but 2-3 didn't want anything to eat. I wanted to try a few things, so we ordered the bruschetta ($6, I think) and the ceviche ($9.50). The bruschetta was chopped tomato and spices in a bowl with several large pieces of crostini. It was good, fresh, but nothing crazy. The ceviche was great. Baby shrimp, cilantro, onion, lime in a tomato broth. Different, but very good...it also came with crostini. We also ordered two panini. The vegatable panino ($8, I think) came with roasted red peppers, zucchini, roasted tomotoes, mozzarella and baby arugula (there may have been more). It was very tasty. I also ordered the market panino ($9) which was chicken wrapped in prosciutto with fontina and the baby arugula. It was very good, with the pressed/toasty bread crunch we like in panini. The ingredients all seemed to be top notch, and everything was fresh and flavorful. There are maybe a dozen panini on the menu, including several that are fancy grilled cheese sandwiches. Several of them looked delicious, and I look forward to trying them soon. Centro also offers cocktails, which I didn't notice until I was standing at the bar paying the bill. When we arrived around 9:45 there were only a couple of other tables occupied. Those folks left, but the small space quickly filled with small groups drinking and talking. We left around midnight with most tables occupied, the bar mostly full, and several people on the front patio. A couple of things...it gets pretty noisy in there. It's a small space with low ceilings and less than great accoustics. Chris also plays the music a bit loud, so you can hear the person right next to you ok, but it was hard to keep up with the conversation beyond that. As we were wrapping up, a couple of my friends noted that it was hard to hear others at our table and I agree. It might be a good idea to lower the music volume a bit, but we didn't really have a problem until the room filled. The waitress was very nice and friendly, perfect for this place. But, she didn't know anything abou the wine list, and had to get Chris to come over to talk with us (which was great, but it seems like she should learn a little about the list). I really like this place a lot, and I encourage anyone in the area to stop in and check it out. I don't know that I would call it a destination restaurant. It's more of a place to go for a quick bite before or after doing something else, a quick weekday dinner (or lunch) or a place to go for a casual drink with a few friends. In other words, a great neighborhood spot in an area that can use a few neighborhood spots. Plus, it's open until 2am every night but Sunday (including the kitchen), which is definately unique for the Scottsdale area. Barry
	By Jess Harter June 27, 2007 Looking for a great late-night sandwich and glass of wine in north Scottsdale? Centro Paninoteca has opened next to Handlebar J country, just northwest of Scottsdale Road and Shea Boulevard. Created by chef-owner Chris Cottingham, former manager of the Biltmore’s Delux, Centro is tiny — just eight tables and a small bar in its 900 square feet — but offers its full menu of appetizers ($3-$10), salads ($5.50-$8) and paninis ($7-$9.50) until 2 a.m. Wine prices range from $7 to $12 per glass (photos). A co-worker and I dropped by to sample two of the sandwiches: a daily-special chicken panini (a proscuitto-wrapped chicken breast with roasted red peppers, creamy fontina cheese, roasted tomatoes, baby arugala, Dijon mustard and and pesto on rosemary foccacia) and an Italian press (spiced pepperoni, salami, tomato sauce, rosemary, fresh mozzarella and parmesan). Both paninis are absolutely delicious. Adding to our delight, each comes with a side of cayenne- and cumin-laced Terra sweet-potato chips. Service is super-friendly.
	By Kristin Spears Next time you’re looking for late-night fare, drive right past that Jack in the Box on Shea and Scottsdale and hit Centro Paninoteca instead. Literally, Centro is right behind the fast-food joint, and though two tacos for 99 cents is a screaming deal, you will thank us for the tip. Centro, open for lunch and dinner with a full menu served until 2 a.m., has tasty eats, a bar with the perfect wine list and an atmosphere that is comfortable and modern, but unpretentious and even a little romantic at night. The building was once a liquor store owned by Herb Drinkwater, the former mayor of Scottsdale. Back in the 1960s his store was frequented by the likes of Johnny Cash and Waylon Jennings, and the building still houses the pictures to prove it. Centro was not created out of luck or happenstance. Owner Chris Cottingham has been mentally perfecting the concept for years. He has worked in numerous restaurants and bars as everything from a server to a manager, all the while learning what works and cataloguing what doesn’t. The end result is Centro. It’s small, seating only 40, though patio construction adding another 40 seats will soon be completed. Cottingham did not design Centro as a destination restaurant. “Centro is meant to be a place you go to grab a bite on your way somewhere or on your way home from somewhere. Think of Centro as a lunch spot or as an addition to your evening,” Cottingham says. So why didn’t this smart, fledgling restaurateur create a five-star restaurant with a temperamental chef and staff of 50? The answer is simple: control. “I didn’t want partners. For a place like that you automatically give up control. This way I created the place I wanted and it will develop the way I want it to,” he says. The goal is to take this concept and add locations strategically. Cottingham is a hands-on guy. He built his own bar, pouring the concrete himself, as well as building the restaurant’s tables. He chose the wines, calling on expertise he has gained in the industry for great drinks at mid-level prices to match and work well with the food. Same with the beer list, which contains Belgian, Italian and American beers, some of which are obscure, but all are worth a taste. He also developed his own menu and the food is exceptional. It is innovative yet simple and the menu changes often enough to guarantee a different experience with every visit. Staples include the chicken panini — marinated, grilled chicken breast, roasted red pepper, fresh mozzarella, roasted tomato, baby arugula and pesto mayo on rosemary focaccia. It is a perfect combination of tastes, served with sweet potato chips outta the bag. Other paninis include the Cappo, with hot capicola, fontina, mozzarella, black olive, pepperoncini, red pepper and red wine vinegar on foccaccia; and the gorgonzola and fig on sourdough panini. For appetizers, the ceviche, a family recipe of cook Alfredo Samano, is delightfully light and tasty, as is the caprese salad. Wednesday is Grilled Cheese Day, when Samano and Cottingham concoct several cheese specialties and there is also a market sandwich that changes daily. Centro is off to a delicious start, so stop by for a quick bite on your way to someplace fun or home after a night on the town.
	By Jess Harter June 27, 2007 There aren’t many restaurants in the East Valley where you can get a great meal and a glass of wine at 1:30 a.m., especially on weeknights. But that small list has grown by one, thanks to Centro Paninoteca. Opened in May by chef-owner Chris Cottingham, the former general manager of trendy Phoenix burger bar Delux, Centro doesn’t look like much at first glance. Tucked next to Scottsdale country bar Handlebar J, Cottingham’s eatery takes up less than 900 square feet — barely big enough for eight tiny tables, a five-stool bar and a small counter by the door. What it lacks in size, though, it more than makes up for with atmosphere. The dark wood furniture, dark brown floors and dark ceiling make Centro look … well, dark — even during the day. At night, though, small candles at each table are reflected off a row of mirrors on the wall, basking the entire space in a warm glow. An eclectic mix of house music creates a nice vibe, playing loud enough not to be lost in the background but not so loud as to make conversation difficult. And the staff? Attentive, friendly and knowledgeable. Cottingham himself is likely to wander over and strike up a conversation. Of course, all of this atmosphere means little without the food to match. Centro has no worries there: It offers a wonderful array of appetizers and panini sandwiches until 2 a.m. every day except Sunday. The half-dozen starters include a delectable salmon carpaccio ($10), a hefty plate of smoked salmon, baby arugula, capers and red onion, and a scrumptious ceviche ($9.50) with shrimp, tomato, cilantro, onion, sweet peas and lime. Aside from three salads, the rest of the menu consists of paninis (10 so far) and a daily market sandwich. You can’t go wrong with any of them. My favorite is the Italian press ($8.50), long, thick slices of spicy pepperoni and salami topped with a zesty tomato sauce, mozzarella, Parmesan and rosemary. Or maybe the chicken panini ($9.50), a marinated chicken breast with roasted red pepper and tomato, mozzarella, baby arugula and pesto mayo. Or perhaps the grilled Gorgonzola and fig on sourdough ($7). In other words, I’m looking forward to trying them all. All the sandwiches come with cayenne- and cumin-laced Terra sweet-potato chips. As for wine, Centro offers 18 reds and whites, most from Italy, by the glass for $7 to $12. Daily specials are as little as $5 per glass. It’s easy to see why hip and affordable Centro is fast becoming a favorite hangout of the culinary crowd. Just be sure to save me a bar stool.